High flyer --- stick bigger, harder dynos
By Neil Gresham
(Climbing Magazine, No206, Sept 15, 2001, P128, Translation: Lin Yuxin)
Original Source: http://climbing.com/Pages/Techtip_pages/206/techtip206_sport.html
When you finish a dyno, you have to rush out quickly and have no other hands to use. There is so much uncertainty in the process that most people would rather avoid it—especially when we are about to finish the course.
There are too many things to pay attention to when Dynos is ─ ─ prompt, accurate, and momentary contact. These are enough to make you shy and flinch when you need the most confidence.
However, some climbers are like rubber and can bounce effortlessly, completing dynamic climbs that seem almost impossible. The following will tell you how they do it:
1. Feet drive, driving with both hands. Don't just pull on your arm. The real driving force of Big dynos actually comes from your strong leg muscles. Lower your body to create the greatest momentum, and use your hands to increase power and direct the direction. Try to combine the thrust of your legs with the pull of your hands into an explosive action.
2. Look twice before jumping. Your brain needs two different reference points to integrate dynamic movement. Look at your target point, then lower your body - look at the target point quickly and then dyno.
3. I believe in the intuition of the body. Bruce Lee once said: Don't think-feel! To complete a difficult dyno, you must rely on the natural sense of physical sensation rather than your sense of consciousness. Don't over analyze your actions, and don't stare at your target point, eliminate your doubts and avoid hesitating.
4. The space is curved. The most common mistake in dyno is overemphasizing upwards, causing you to jump too high from the rock. This is due to the fact that you are moving towards a straight line. Instead, you should imagine an arc between yourself and the target point, and try to make your center of gravity move along this trajectory.
5. Don't pretend. A quick fake action may help you to prepare for a big move, but please avoid repeating it many times. Excessive preparatory movements can make your muscles fatigued and give you too much time to think about trivial things beyond the movement.
6. Master your movements. If you want to devote yourself, you must know what you are doing. When you are training, look and touch your target point. Get closer to the cute rock spots so that you know when they are jumping towards them, they are in a position and they feel the touch. Then feel relieved to lower your body and fly to the rock.
7. It is necessary quickly. A successful dyno needs speed. However, many people do not really move fast, either because they do not develop the correct coordination of forces, or because they contract less muscle fibers. You want to improve the efficiency of your muscles. You can do campus-board training, footless bouldering, and weight training focusing on the speed of repetitive movements rather than the weight limit. Of course, there are more dynamic actions.
8. Try to climb more dynamic. Jump to those big hands, even if you can catch them with static motion. This is not just physical training. Most people climb too static and when they can easily fly to the handle, they are wasting their energy in seeking balance and locking off those hard-won points. After practice, you will find that dyno is not only a means of last resort, it is often a more efficient climbing technique.
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