How to become a French Alpine guide?

Transfer from: http:// France National Mountaineering Ski School
The definition of French Mountain Guide:

As a mountain guide, it requires top physical condition, technical ability and psychological quality. The high level of high-altitude mountain peaks, including: snow, ice, rock, mixed terrain, alpine skiing, ice climbing, and other different climbing skills, is a prerequisite for the Alpine Wizard qualification examination application.

The certification of the Takayama Wizard enables the holder to legally perform the following activities in addition to the guidance guided by other qualifications at lower altitudes:

- Lead or lead others to climb, including rocks, slopes, and mixed routes
- Lead others to ski cross-country and alpine skiing
- Teaching others skills for climbing, rock climbing, cross-country skiing, alpine skiing
- To teach others the need for protection and special installations


But the process of becoming a mountain guide is not an easy task!

First, he/she needs to apply for entry into the assistant mountain guide training qualification, which in itself requires an experienced climber first. After training to be qualified as an assistant guide, you must wait at least 2 years before applying to become an alpine guide.

French Assistant Mountain Guide

First, the prerequisites for applying for assistant mountain guide qualification training:

1. Difficulty in climbing on TD (6a) or above requires a mountain above 2,500 meters above sea level and a height of 350 meters. At least 5 of the 10 routes are required to establish a protection system.

2.10 Ice-Snow Mixing Course Climbing with altitude above 500m a. All routes are more difficult than PD (somewhat difficult), 5 of which should be D(difficulty) or more b.10 climbs, at least 5 drops Different route and climbing route

3.10 Climbing on mixed routes with a height of 500 meters or more a. The difficulty of 5 routes is above PD; 5 routes should be selected from the routes in the schedule

4.10 natural rock climbing routes with minimum difficulty of TD+(6b) and altitude of at least 150 meters

5.10 cross-country skiing, including 7 ski passes with a height difference of at least 1500 meters, and a minimum of 3 consecutive days of cross-country (alpine huts, wooden sheds or campsites in different locations at night)

6.5 climbing heights over 100 meters above 4+

All of these climbs require a vanguard climb or a pioneer climb at least 50% of the climb.

Admission test:

Includes ski exams, climbing exams, ice climbing exams and mixed terrain exams, as well as an interview with applicants for climbing experience (reviewing the climbing routes reported above)

Then 160 hours of public training courses for mountain sports practitioners

2-week (80-hour) basic skills training

2 one-week or two-week ski mountaineering training for assistant mountain guides

A 6-week training course for all assistant mountain guides

50-hour stream sports

After graduation, at least two years of internship as an assistant guide


Alpine Wizard qualification

Prerequisites: Learn at least 35 different climbing routes (climbing, ice climbing), at least 15 of which are career climbs as assistant mountain guides. Of these 15 climbs, 5 days should be used as an assistant to the officially recognized Takayama Wizard.

At least one of these climbs is an alpine climb with high technical, physical, and psychological requirements. The requirement is a climb that can be called "course d'envergure" (high intensity route). It should be at a high altitude with a summit height of 3,500 meters or more. Should include the following route, or the same difficulty course:

- The northern wall of Grandes Jorasses
- The northern wall of La Meije
- Pirene du Freney Freney column in Mont Blanc
- The northern wall of L'Eiger
- The northern wall of Ailefroide
- Or expedition climbing

15 days of cross-country skiing, including 4 consecutive days and 5 days of professional cross-country skiing

Then, a one-week mountain guide ski mountaineering course

A four-week mountain guide climbing technique course.

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